Water Quality | Species Compatibility | Diseases | Temperature | Aeration | Light

Water Quality

Each fish type has an optimum level of water quality in which it best lives. This includes the type of water (fresh or marine), the hardness of the water, the alkalinity or acidity of the water, the temperature of the water and whether the water is flowing or moving or still.

Hardness is the measure of dissolved mineral salts within the water. The more the mineral saturation of the water, the harder the water. Care should be taken when choosing ‘furniture' or décor for your tank as pieces such as rocks, coral, shells, wood, plastic, ceramic pots and plants will all affect the hardness of the water in your tank. Test kits are available to help you determine the hardness of the water in your tank. Please ask our staff for assistance.

The scale used to determine whether water is acidic or alkaline is known as pH. Most fish best tolerate a pH of between 5.5 and 9.0. Kits can be bought commercially to adjust the pH of tank water and are simple to use, however, exact measures must be used.

Chemicals entering the tank also compromise water quality of the tank. This can be from outside factors such as insecticidal sprays or from internal factors such as organic wastes. Outside factors contaminating the quality of the water can be prevented by turning off the air inlet and by covering the tank when spraying aerosols nearby. Internal factors from organic wastes such as fish excreta and plant debris are easily controlled using a filtration system within the tank.

At least monthly a water change in the tank should be carried out. Only 20 – 30% of the water needs to be replaced. Any more will be to the detriment of the fish's health by removing good bacteria and causing excess stress to the fish due to the change in water quality.

Begin the water change by siphoning the lower layers of water, that is, at and through the substrate level. This helps remove solid waste as well. Remove approximately one third of the water. Scrub the tank walls and décor. Depending on the filtration system this may need to be cleaned as well remembering not to clean too thoroughly so as not to remove bacteria useful in biological filtration. Replace the water with clean aged water that has been de-chlorinated and prepared to the optimum pH and hardness using commercially available kits.

Please ask our staff for advice on routine water changes and cleaning of your aquarium.

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It must be remembered that some fish are territorial and it is advisable to choose compatible species. A rule of thumb is the smallest fish should be too big to fit into the mouth of the largest fish.

The more aggressive fish include the Cichlid family and Tiger Barbs of the Cypriniforme family. These fish must be housed with similar species or fish of a larger size.

Male Siamese fighting fish must never be housed together as they will fight to the death.

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Diseases

Most diseases that occur to fish in an aquarium are usually caused by environmental conditions.

Thus, if you are practicing good tank hygiene and maintenance, diseases leading to mortality are kept to a minimum.

If your fish are appearing sick or are dying and you believe your tank environment is at its optimum, some vets offer fish care services, or alternately ask our staff for direction.

Some of the more common diseases fish are susceptible to are:

• Constipation – displayed by a reduced appetite in the fish, minimal or no faeces, lethargy and a swollen abdomen.

• Dropsy – displayed by a swollen abdomen due to a build up of fluid in the tissues. Excess salt and/or nitrates in the tank or an unsuitable diet usually cause this.

• Fin Rot – displayed by the fin membranes actually disintegrating. This is a bacterial condition caused by poor water quality or injury to the fins.

• Fungus – displayed by a white fluffy growth on the body or fins. It is usually caused by injury, parasites or environment.

Some of the more common parasites fish are susceptible to are:

• Gill Parasites – caused by ‘flukes' attaching to the gills and is displayed by scratching, heightened colour, glazed eyes and loss of motor control as oxygen shortage affects the brain.

• Hole in the Head - caused by the internal parasite Hexomita that is usually only harmful when the fish is weakened by other factors such as environmental conditions. It is displayed by pus filled sores on the head and white stringy faeces.

• Various Intestinal Parasites – displayed by worms sometimes protruding from the fish and anorexia despite having an appetite.

• Fish Lice – are round almost transparent creatures attached to the fishes skin.

• Anchor Worms – are worm like creatures attached to the fish by their mouths.

• White Spot – caused by the parasite Ichthyopthirius which displays as tiny white spots on the body and fins increasing to cover the body within days. It is best advised you consult your vet or a fish specialist for diagnosis of these conditions.
  

For specific treatments, please see our staff.

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Temperature

As a basic guideline, most community tropical aquariums should run between 23-27 ° c. Bear keep in mind that different species have different requirements. Always use a thermostat with a heater in order to maintain the temperature accurately and ensure the heater is able to heat the whole tank. Cold water aquariums do not generally need heating.

Cold-water aquariums may not need heating as the coldwater Cypriniformes (Goldfish) live in water in the range of 10 –15 degrees celsius. As to whether a heater is required will depend on external temperature fluctuation, seasonal changes, tank mates, position of tank, flow of water and so on. Please ask our staff for advice.

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Aeration

Aeration ensures sufficient oxygen is supplied to the aquarium and can be provided through air pumps and /or air stones.

Some filtration systems also have built in aerators.

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Lighting

On average, twelve hours of light is required all day for optimum fish health and plant growth. Light can be provided through natural lighting (although too much sunlight may cause algal blooms in the tank), fluorescent bulbs or through special aquaria spotlights.

Fluorescent bulbs and spotlights must be carefully protected from the water itself or be waterproof to avoid electrocution and other associated dangers.

Too much artificial light can be harmful or uncomfortable to some species of fish. This can be remedied by providing shade though floating plants or by providing hiding places for the fish. This latter option however defeats the purpose as having the aquarium and the fish within it as an object of beauty to look at.

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